YAGHTING
IN
HOLLAND
- BY
G. E. A. L. RUMBOLD.
JA.
PUBLISHED BY f$&!ff
The Official Information Office'
45, LANGE VOORHOUT, THE HAGUE IN ASSOCIAT{ON W1TH
THE DUTCH TOURING CLUB (A. N. W. B.)












Mr. Rnmbold's Yacht (Lily Maid II) on the Zuider Zee.
YACHT-OWNERS are strongly advised to become members of the Koninklijke Nederlandsche Zeil- en Roeivereeniging (Royal Netherlands Sailing & Rowing Club).
Cruising under the flag of this Club means:
ENJOYING many advantages and facilities. SA VING much trouble.
Entrance fee £ 0.8.4.
Annual subscription for foreign members £ 0.16.8. Apply to the Hon. Secretary: Raadhuisstraat 29, Amsterdam.






Yachting in Holland
by
G. E. A. L. Rumbold
Published by the Official Information Office 45 - Lange Voorhout. The Hague,
in association with The Dutch Touring Jlub (A. N. W. B.).



YACHTING IN HOLLAND
The Quickest Route is via Harwieh and the Hook
(BRITISH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE)
Daily service
LnudoD (Liverpool St. Station) dep. 8.30 p.ni. Amsterdam dep. 9.45 p.m.
Harwieh (Parkeston Quay) „ 10.0 „ Haarlem „ 10.5 „
Hook of Holland „ 5.40 a.m. The Hagoe „ 10.47 „
The Hague arr. 6.21 „ Hook of Holland „ 11.30 „
Haarlem „ 7.10 „ Harwieh (Parkeston Quay) „ 6.35 a.m.
Amsterdam „ 7.30 „ London (Liverpool St. Station) arr. 8.0 „
Corridor Vestibuled Trains with Dining and Breakfast cars between Liverpool Street Station, London, and Parkeston Quay, Harwieh
Turbine Steamers Wireless Telegraphy and Submarine Signalling
Direct Service from and to Scotland, the Northern and Midland counties of England without crossing London. Restaurant Car Express Trains from and to York via Maren alongside the steamers. Corridor carriages from and to Liverpool, Manchester, Warrington, Bradford (Exchange) Leeds and Birmingham.
For fares and further particulars see the Great KaMern Railway Compcmy's Continental Time Book (free) or apply to G. Busk Continental Traffic Manager Liverpool Street Station, London.
1/4/13.



YAGHTING IN HOLLAND
BY
G. E. A. L. RUMBOLD.
It is no exaggeration to say that Holland possesscs the fini'st sailing ground in all Europe for yachts of small or medium size. Then, again, there is the advantage that it is within very easy reach of our ovm shóres. For one has oDly to slip across the Channel on some day to Galais, where it becomes mere child's play to gain the Dutch coast, as it is possible to sail quite close to the land, inside the Flemish Banks, to Flushing with good harbonrs every few miles in case of bad weathet. Furthermore, the Netherlands offer a complete change of aspect and life which cannot be said of many foreign countries. In fact, some Continental tc wns scarcely differ in general appearance from English ones. On the other hand, no sooner do you step ashore at Flushing than you realize that you are quite in a new world. You see that the peasants in their picturesque Zeeland dresses, which, by the way, I hope fche powers that be in Holland will do everything at their disposal to perpetuate. Then there are the characteristic canals full of curious Dtitch ships, from the quaint fishing boat with its wingUke leeboards and its brown sails to the stately lighters of immense length that carry goods far into the heart of Germany. Again, the strangers eye will be canght by bright milk-cans being pulled along the streets in carts drawn by fine-looking dogs. Whilst, if he glances upwards, he will see spires and gables of curious shape, for the buildings of Holland give character to the country. Yachtsmen of every taste will find, while cruising, amusements to soit them. For instance, if one is interested in gardening there is an immense bulb-growing industry, the largest in the world, which covers almost the entire land from Leiden to Haarlem. Moreover, there is an extensive tract of country at Boskoop just to thenorth of Gouda, which is taken-up in the raising of the choicest sorts of conifers, rhododendrons, and the like. The nursery-gardens



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at Aalsmeer, near Amsterdam, are famous for their flowers and clipped box figures, whilst at Enkhuizen on the Zuider Zee there are remarkable seed-producing farms. Again, picture-lovers -will be charmed by the fine collection of Frans Hals' picturcs at Haarlem and by the famous portraits and landscapes in the great EijksMuseum at Amsterdam, and the Mauritshuis at the Hague, to say nothing of the lesser galleries. Those interested in farming will secure ample instruction in the rich meadow lands of Friesland, Groningen, and Gelderland. Artists will find full scope for brush and pencil everywhere they go. Those in search of lighter amusements can obtain them at Scheveningen and other seaside resorts ; but above all let it be remembered, that only the yachtsman, the traveller by water, can really see and know Holland. For the very life and breath of the country is drawn from the waters, and no in considerable portion of the population lives in floating homes. To say you had seen Holland by crossing it in a train would be very similar to saying that you had seen England by flying over it in an areoplane. Many a quainfc little village is practically accessible only by water, and to enter many a town except by boat is to miss half the charm of the place. For instance, how much more romantic and pleasant it is to see Sneek's charming water gate gradually rising above the town it guards, when approaching that place from IJlst, than to be taken there in a commonplace train ! But with all its picturesqueness Holland is essentially a clean country. Many of our own great towns, I am sorry to say, are disgraced by squalid slums full of slatternly men and women with dirty children playing in the gutters. This forms no part of Dutch life. In the Netherlands everything is essentially orderly and the houses and their contents are cleaned and polished to the utmost extent. In fact there must be an enormous trade in soap and other cleaning materials, for every day in Holland appears to be washing-day !
Yet this country with all its varied charms remains practically an unknown one to the British yachtsman, and those who have spent much time on the Dutch waterways must have remarked how seldom the English flag is seen except at the ports on the coast. The reason for this state of affairs is not at first apparent, but it is probably due to two or three causes. In the first place



5
there appears to be an erroneous impression that only a flatbottomed boat is fit for Holland. In the old days before the advent of the marine motor the writer of these lines enjoyed much good sailing, during several seasons, in a couple of yachts drawing respectively 7 feet and 8£ feet, in the estuaries between Flushing and Rotterdam, and visited such interesting places as Middelburg, Veere, Zierikzee, and Dordrecht. Furthermore it may be safely said, that British yachtsmen have not realized what the auxüiary motor as applied to sailing yachts, has done for them in opening up the cruising grounds of Holland. In this connection it may be mentioned, that some people who should know better appear to think that yachting in Holland consists entirely of going up and down canals. In fact if one remarks to an acquaintance that one has been recently yachting in Holland he invariably replies: "Oh! yes, you have been up the cana's." As a matter beyond dispute one of the great charms of Dutch yachting is its exceeding variability. In the great estuaries formed by the Schelde, the Maas, and their tributaries grand sailing can be enjoyed in yachts of comparativ-ely deep draught, as I have already indicated. My voyages there wère always undertaken without the aid of a pilot, so, with local assistance, no doubt craft of ten feet, or even more, could be used. In many ways it represents an ideal sailing ground fcr the simple reason that you can, practically speaking, always sail. I mean that you can hardly ever be held up by bad weather. Last year (1912) it must have been the fate of many yachtsmen to spend several days at a time in some out of the way port, perhaps of little interest, owing to the gales experienced. On the other hand during an extended cruise through Holland in that summer I was only detained in harbour one day by stormy weather, when I happened to be at Enkhuizen on the Zuider Zee. Then, again, in no country in the world with which I am acquainted can you get such a perfectly true wind, when far inland, as in HoDand; this being due to the low-lying nature of the country. But to journey from one estuary to another, or to the still wider waters of the Zuider Zee, motor power is very useful, although not absolutely necessary. For there are, at the present time, so many commercial power-craft in Holland, that one can easily arrange for a "pluck" at a moderate price. After a hard bit of
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sailing in the more open waters it is a pleasant change to motor up some placid canal amid charming rural surroundings. If the wind is suitable one can hoist one's sails, except when going through towns, when such a proceeding is forbidden. By these means one can visit nearly all the chief places in Holland, depending on the depth of one's ship. But it may be stated, that the principal canals of Holland, that is to say thóse which connect Amsterdam with the South, the East, and the North, have a depth of at least eight feet, and some of thèm far more. The only exception being the canalized river Amstel which admits vessels not exceeding about 6 feet draught. On the other hand for the Zuider Zee, and the Friesland canals and meers a yacht should certainly not draw more than 5J feet, and in the latter this even might be found too much in an exceptionally dry summer, as for instance that of 1911. But a yacht of greater draught may proceed beyond Amsterdam by the great North Holland Canal (depth 18 to 19\ feet).
Before leaving the subject of the general advantages of yachting in Holland I will quote a very common case to which these benefits particnlarly apply. For instance one often meets a man well-known in former years for his keenness on yachting. You ask him why he has not been lately afloat. He replies to the effect that he personally has lost none of his enthusiasm, but he can never get his wife and his daughters, as the case may be, to go with him, so he has given up cruising. He will further explain that these relatives like yachting per se, but that they suffer dreadfully from sea-sickness, which takes away all their pleasure. Here is a case where Holland may prove to be a man's salvation from a yachting point of view. For the well-sheltered Dutch waters can be warranted, like certain patent medicines, not to upset the most delicate constitutions. Flushing, the Hook of Holland, or Botterdam may be reached by passenger steamer in a very few hours, and those who join their yachts at those places can have many weeks of enjoyment without any of the hardships of more open waters.
As already indicated yachts drawing up to about 10 feet may



THE OFFICIAL INFORMATION OFFICE FOR T0URI8TS
The Hagtje — Holland — Lange Voorhout 45
In 1908 the Public Information Office for Tourists has been established at The Hague. It is supported by the Dutch Government, and under its direct supervision.
Most tourists, as a mie, stick to the beat en track. Of all the visitors to Holland there are but few who realise that Volendam, with its baggy-trousered fishermen, and the curious little island of Marken are not the only places of interest.
By no means omit going these quaints spots, but before starting, visit our office and we will plan out a tour, which will take you to other places equally interesting. The Central Office prides itself on providing pleasant tours to suit the tastes of all travellers.
It will help the picture lovers to see the wonderful galleries with competent guides. It takes the artist to the picturesque villages near inland lakes. Yachtsmen are provided with sailing vessels or motorboats, in which to visit the delightful Frisian Meers, the dead cities of the Zuider-Zee, or the comparatively unknown province of Zeeland, where the most glorious sailing on its wide waters may be enjoyed together with the sight of fine old buildings and quaint costumes.
If you take interest in gardening, it will teil you all about the delightful trips by motorboat, auto, or bike, to the wonderful nurseries of Aalsmeer, far famed for its clipped box figures, to Boskoop, the home of beautiful flowering shrubs, or to the widely renowned gardens near Haarlem.
If you are fond of golf, it will indicate to you the different courses, and show you how to get there. It is only necessary for the tourist to say what he wishes to see, how much he wishes to spend, and guidebooks and maps will be given to him, rooms engaged, seats booked and he starts free from all the worries of travel.
No question is too much trouble.
And the Central Office does not only altend to the wishes of those who visit Holland, but helps in every way the passing traveller.
In the comfortable reading room, guidebooks, maps, etc. may be found.
And all this is done absolutely FREE OF CHARGE.
OOME and YOU WILL NEVER REGRET IT! !!



Complaints.
The Public Information OfG.ce for Tourists (45 Lange Voorhout The Hague) is always ready to fully investigate any complaints made by Yachtsmen and others.
The Directoralso will be pleased to hear ot any suggestions concerning the usefulness of this work, either by way of addition, alteration, or by the pointing out of such omissions errors thatinadvertently may have occurred.









9
be used in many parts of the Low Countries, especially on the estuaries of the South and on the waterways connecting the principal towns with the sea. But it will be as well to describe the kind of craft most suitable for these wateis. Tn the first place we must have a vessel of sufficiënt size and seaworthiness to cross the North Sea or Ghannel. Secondly we come to the question of draught. Here there must of necessity be some compromise. My experiences lead me to the conclusion, that if one wants a free hand in Holland as to one's cruising grounds a useful maximum of depth below Water is 5$ feet. Por in a yacht not exceeding that dimension it is possible to go from one end of the country to the other as previously stated.
A third factor to be considered is that of comfort, and one naturally of some importance during an extended cruise of, perhaps, many weeks duration. This is, of course, largely a personal question. But in order to «trike an average we may say good headroom is essential and separate sleeping accomodation must be provided apart from the saloon. To design a steam- or motor-ship under these conditions is quite easy and need not be entered upon here, but the planning of a, sailing yacht with her greater proportionate draught is more difficult. Again, sailing yachts have always been much more popular than power craft and apparently will continue só to be, noW that the auxiliary motor has come to their aid. In suggesting a good type of yacht for Holland I will take as an example a boat I recently had built for the express purpose. With a draught limited to the 5J feet, already mentioned, the designer and myself came to the conclusion that we could not exceed 14 tons Y. M., as a good weatherly craft was required. On this basis I obtained a yacht with an excellent saloon, a double-berthed sleeping cabin and a forecastle for two men, besides the usual conveniences. Under a low coach-roof there is headroom of not less than 6 feet 4 inches. Her qualities under sail proved to be quite satisfactory, and she is a good, süff, and able yacht. Being of somewhat novel design naturally enough improvements have suggested themselves. Most of these were trivia! alterations which were soon effected. But the only point in particular, that requires special mention, was in relation to the motor installation. It will be advisible to go into some detail here, as my experience may be
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useful to yachtmen cruising in Holland. For open sea work many auxiliaries are fitted with motors of low power and without reverse gears, and no doubt they answer the purpose, for the engine is only employed during flat calms and in waters never so crowded as those of a narrow and much frequented canal. On the other hand in Holland one often has to use one's motor against a strong head wind, when passing through a channel too narrow for tacking, yet somewhat exposed, as, for instance, when traversing the fairways through the meers of Friesland. Again, a very flexible engine is required with a very reliable and quick-working reverse gear when passing through canals carrying a good deal of traffic in the vicinity of a large town. Our motor was fitted with the latter, and although, curiously enough, the little engine could successfully battle with the tides in the estuaries a strong head wind in the canals and more especially in the meers greatly reduced the pace. Consequently a motor of the same make, but of doublé the size, will shortly be installed which will bring the horse power up to fourteen. The engine space is aft under the steering well, where it scarcely effects the general accomodation, and the controls are easily handled by the man at the helm. Before leaving this subject I will add that a paraffin motor should be chosen, when possible, for use in Holland, as that fuel is readily obtainable at a very reasonable price in all the villages in that country.
Every yachtsman of experience knows, that his vessel requires different kinds of equipment according to the locality in which he happens to be cruising. For instance, when sailing on the west coast of Scotiand, anchors, chains, and capstans require special consideration owing to the depths of the natural harbours. Again, those who make long voyages far from havens of refuge are in the habit of carrying sea-anchors. Holland is no exception to the above-named rule, so before starting on a voyage to that country we must see that our equipment is suitable to local conditions. In the first place ground tackle will seldom be needed, for generally one finds accomodation alongside a wharf or quay often in tideless waters. On the other hand to get inside most Dutch harbours locks have to be passed. Consequently great attention must be paid to warps and fend-offs. As regards the former they should



11
be at least two in number, the larger one measuring, say, 30 fathoms and the shorter 15 fathoms. They must be strong enough to stop the yacht's way at short notice, when, perhaps, she is being propelled forward by a strong leading wind. On the other hand they should oe light enough to be easily swung ashore. Besides, a long loop should be formed at one end oy means of a bowline, so that a lock attendant may the quicker make them secure to a bollard. Manilla rope, I think, is best for the purpose, but, ifnew, it should be well stretched on shore, to take out the kinks. Without this latter serious damage might be done not only to the yacht herself, but to any neighbour she might have withui the confined space of a lock, as a rope with turns in it is very nearly useless. When about to enter a lock one warp should be carried on the forecastle deck and the other on the counter ready for instant use. Their suggested length may appear to some of my readers to be excessive, but this is not really the fact. Por in canal work it often becomes necessary to move one's position, and on many occasions both ropes will have to be joined together before a suitable warping post can be reached. Again, it sometimes happens that in giving way to some boat passing through a swing bridge one temporarily touches the ground by the side of a canal, and when hauling off the combined ropes are often indispensable. As regards fend-offs these naturally are most usèful, as a yacht frequently finds herself in very close quarters. A good tip is to have covers to slip over the gangway fend-offs, when these can be used for rough work, thus some stowage space may be saved. I have also known on occasions the ship's mat to come in useful as a means of protection when fitted with lanyards. Beyond these a couple of good coir fend-offs will prove sufficiënt, but they should have two or three thicknesses of stout canvas, sewnround them to prevent them chafing the yacht's side. For great pressure is often placed on them in crowded locks. Another article of equipment, which must be found in very different guise to the trumpery affair one often sees on pleasure craft is a boat hook. I have known a Dutch pilot declare that it should be as long as that carried by the local craft, but this would probably be found too cumbersome for a yacht's deck. However, one of about nine feet in length should be employed, while another somewhat shoiter will at times be found



12
most useful. Their heads should be fitted with a spike as well as a hook, foUowlng the local pattern which is the most serviceable in the stone-faced locks. Again, a trysaü should certainly be carried when a cruise of this description is undertaken, for it can be used with good affect to take the load off the engine when a leading wind is experienced. Moreover, such a sail can be easily run up and down before and after delays at bridges.
Having now given some general idea of yachting in Holland, let us consider for a moment a typical cruise in that country. Por this purpose I cannot do better than recount my experiences of last summer, when I journeyed inland from Plushing in the South to Delfzijl in the far North. Our real objective Was Kiel, and so long a voyage in such a small yacht I should certainly not have undertaken unless a great portion of our journey was to consist in passing through the well-sheltered Dutch waterways. In fact, Holland forms a valuable link between the North Sea ~ and the Baltic in a cruise of this sort. I will only touch lightly on the first part of our journey, as my chief concern is with Holland. It will, therefore, suffice to say that we started from Poole on Thursday, May 23rd, ^.nd reached Portsmouth the same night. On the following day we got under way after breakfast, and, keeping on all night, we reached Calais the following morningshortly before rnid-day. The wind varied from light to fresh, and as its general direotion was ÏT. E., we were close hauled most of the way. We spent Sunday at Calais and made an early start on Monday. It may be here remarked that yachts wishing to reach Holland from this port should pass inside the banks and through Dunkerque and Ostende roads. The only place likely to cause any difficulty is the Zuydcoote Pass which is situated immediately off the boundary line of Prance and Belgium. But as this channel is now well buoyed no trouble should be experienced in clear weather, but it should certainly not be attempted at night or during a fog. It is, however, essential that quite up-to-date charts should be used, as se\eral alterations and additions have been made to the buoys in this neighbourhoód in very recent times. To resumé : after starting from Calais we experienced very light airs throughout the day mostTy in our favour, so the motor had to be used \ ery



Botter (fisherman).
Botter (fisherman).






13
freely, and dawn was just breaking on the following morning before we found ourselves safely moored within the lock gates of the railway harbour at Flushing. This particular portion of the port is not easy to find at night, particularly for strangers. A glance at the chart shows that the entrance of this railway harbour, the one always used by yachts, is at the eastern extreme of the town of Flushing. In this connection it should be remembered that much of the western, or seaward, end of Flushing is built on the top of a high dyke, while between this portion of the place and the railway harbour the buildings are below an embankment. Consequently one has apparently to leave town some distance bebind and pass up the Schelde before the desired goal is reached, for no domestic lights are visible during the latter part of the journey. It may here be noted that, excluding the Sunday and the rest of the time we spent at Calais, our actual journey from Portsmouth to Flushing had occupied considerably less than two days which shows how easily Holland can be reached in a yacht from the great yachting centre of the Solent and also from our south-east coast.
After a few hours rest my wife and I went ashore as I was anxions to show her the place. Before us was the fine inner harbour and the broad Middelburg canal, which bisects the island of Walcheren. When I see these great Dutch waterways I often think of the saying of an old sailor of my acquaintance which ran as follows : "Fire and water are good servants, but bad masters." These waters to the Dutch, however, are not merely in the relation of master to servant, butasconquerortoconquered.Forlikesubjugated races they are ever likely to break out in revolt,as witness the floods that occurred in Friesland a few years ago. The danger is an ever present one, entailing the ceaseless vigüance and much expenditure of money. In fact, I have been told that in some cases the polders (reclaimed lands) are gradually sinking and that the cost of keeping the sea from taking back its own may in the future amount to more than even the land is worth. Let us, however, return to Flushing, where we were soon busy renewing old acquaintances, for long since I have learned to regard the kindly Dutch in no sense as foreignera. During our walk fresh stores of various sorts had to be ordered, and, when doing this, the disadvan-
4



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15
tage so often urged by yachtsmen against Continental cruising, as regards their inability to speak any language but their own, did not in the least trouble us. Por as a matter of fact nine business men in ten will be found in this country who can speak English, while fully half the inhabitants appear to have a nodding acquaintance with our tongue. Moreover, I have often noticed that when brought up off any scanty coDection of cottages on some out-of-the-way canal that one at least of the inhabitants possesses a working knowledge of English. During the course of our wanderings we went up to the terrace overlooking the sea and the Schelde entrance, on which stands in bronze the commanding figure of the great Admiral de Buy ter, who played such sad havoc, at times, with our shippingin the Thames, and elsewhere, in the days of long ago. To stand on this teirace is to my mind to have before one's eyes one of the finest marine views in the world. Although it has been my good fortunc to see some of the grandest, such as the vista of the Mediterranean from Gibraltar, and Cape Town's fine bay from the rising ground below the towering heights of Table Mountain. Here at Plushing there is a kind of doublé view, for on one side is the ever rcstless Nbrth Sea, bounded on the south as far as the eye can reach by the sweep of the Dutch and Belgian coasts. On the other is the broad estuary of the mighty Schelde which carries on its bosom some of the richest commerce of the world. Shipping of all sorts and kinds is continually passing close in front of this vantage point, now some giant liner, then a hard working tramp steamer with rusty sides, to be shortly followed by a little fleet of quaint Dutch sailing craft. H we follow the terrace in a northerly direction we come upon Plushing's fashionable quarter which deserves to be better known as an excellent seaside resort, for it is within such very easy reach of our own shores. During recent years a considerable number of first class residences, shobs, and restaurants have been built, and one very large and comtortable hotel, which forms a conspicuous seamark and stands about a mile distant from the centre of the town. Near this big hostelry a fine view can be obtained of Walcheren, an island which perhaps is best known to Englishmen by reason of the ül-fated expedition of that name which took place in 1809. About this a wit of the times wrote the well known lines:



16
"Lord Chatham with his sword drawn Was waiting for Sir Eichard Strachan Sir Eichard ionging to be at 'em Was waiting for the Earl of Chatham."
Historians of the past blamed the commanders for not making an energetic advance. Military critics of later days declare that the strategy that planned the Walcheren Island Expedition was ah* wrong, and that no amount of tactical effort could have put matters right. Before leaving Flushing let me recall one more incident that happened here, namely Philip U's rinal departure for Spain, when turning to Wüliam the Silent, Prince of Oiange and Nassau, he threw the whole blame for all this troubles in Holland on that greatcst of Dutchmen with the bitter reproach : "Not the Estates, but, you, you, you!"
We spent the following day. May 28th, at Plushing as a few repairs had become necessary, but the next afternoon we got under way once more. We soon reached Middelburg by means of the fine ship canal. Unfortunately we had insufficiënt time to thoroughly explore this very interestiag town, which is one of the most charming in Holland. The Stadhuis is a very fine Gothic building and the waning light just served well enough for us to see something of its wonderful front. In the same square are some exceptionally good shops dealing in Dutch wares of various sorts, and, hard by, in an adjoining street we found an excellent hotel which possesses a very pretty and shady garden at the back. This must come as a surprise to a good many visitors, as the place is situated quite in the centre of the town.
The next morning saw us under way at an early hour and with the aid of our motor we soon reached Veere. This ancient settlement, now the haunt of artists, once ranked high among seaports. Its enormous church bears silent testimony to the large number of inhabitants the town must at one time have possessed. There is also a quaint town-hall which should certainly not be missed. The locks here, as elsewhere in Holland, are massive structures, and we were admitted to pass through them after the lock-master had looked at









J7
our papers. It may here be said that canal dues scarcely exist in Holland, as regards yachts, and that the officials are ever ready to extend a helping hand to owners. Another advantage is that one is Dever worried by Custom-house officers; the case being different in certain countries not very far from home.
We now found ourselves once more in tidal waters with the great estuaries of the East-Schelde and the Maas in front of us. These channels are so well buoyed that they need not cause any tronble to the stranger. I notice that one recent writer stood in some awe of them, and actually advises his readers to solemnly mark with a pencil on the chart each buoy as it is passed. The author in question, however like certain others, seems to have rushed into print after a single brief experience of Holland. His yacht only drew feet, so he need not have been so anxious. As a matter of ïact the only channel that requires considerable care is the Zandkreek (Sand Creek) which directJy connects Veere with the East Schelde, and which we traversed on the day in question. I have beaten through it in an old cutter drawing 7 ft., but the owner of a large yacht, especially if the wind be not favourable, would be well advised to reach the East Schelde by way of 't Veere Gat and De Eoompot, that is by leaving the island of North Beveland to starboard. A third way of attaining the desired result is by sailing up the West Schelde from Flushing, as if bound forAntwerp, and then using the South Beveland Canal (depth 21 feet) which bisects the island of the game name. But before attempting any sailing in these estuaries a thorough study should be made of the Dutch buoyage system. Once this has been grasped these waters are certainly not difficult to navigate. The writer, in the days before marine motors had made their debut, traversed them in yachts drawing up to 8± feet, and only on one occasion did he get ashore. This latter happening was due to trying to cheat the tide by going wilfully inside some bnoys. Instead of that the tide cheated him and left him high and dry. After a good deal of hard work, but with no outside assistance, the yacht was got afloat after remaining aground twentyfour hours. But let us return to the Sand Creek, where we experienced a light easterly wind which failed to freshen as the day advanced. However, wit* the aid of the motor we reached the East Schelde



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and then catching a sight of Zierikzee's great churchtower we were soon standing over for that place. We now passed up the somewhat narrow channel between St. Philipsland and Durveiand, where prodigies of valour were performed by Dutchmen and Sjaniards alike in 1575, when the latter succeeded in capturing the town of Zierikzee. We carried a favourable tide nearly to the Hollandsen Diep, but, before we could reach our destination af Willemstad, it commenced to turn hotly against us. Therefore we did not drop anchor until nearly dark. The harbour at Willemstad is quite small and at low tide the depth alongi-ide the quay is about 3 feet. Springs rise 10 feet. In calm weather, or with an off-shore wind, the bost plan is to bring up close to the shore, which is steep hereabouts, to the east of the jetty. Thus one avoids the nuisance of having to looi after warps as the tide rises and falls. Moreover, one can row up to the town in the course of a few minutes. This we did, as we were anxious to buy some provisions. These can readily be obtained here, and consequently this pleasant little town forms a convenient port of call. It is one of those places that should be visited, as it is quite unspoiled and off the beaten track. In fact the wise man of the place had to be consulted before change for an English sovereign could be obtained. By the way, when cruising in thelessfrequented parts of Holland it is best to arm one's self before hand with a good supply of the local coin of the realm, as such forethought often saves delay. This small garrison town is closely hedged in by somewhat obsolete-looking fortifications, but which were good enough in 1792 to successfully resist a French bombardment.
Yachtsmen on arrival at Willemstad have two courses open to them when proceeding North. Those who wish to reach that great commercial centre, Botterdam, will be well advised to go by Helvoetsluis and the Voorne Canal (from 17 to 20 feet deep). By taking this route possible delay at the railway bridge at Dordrecht will be avoided. On the other hand, yachts bound to Amsterdam and the Zuider Zee, had best use the shorter way by Dordrecht and subsequently by Gouda which is available for craft drawing up to 7 feet. Di this case they will avoid Botterdam with its railway bridge (just beyond the yacht harbour) and be able to proceed up the Hollandsche IJssel River to Gouda, and then by canal to Amsterdam.



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As we were bound to that city we took the latter route on the following morning. A light easterly wind served us badly, so we had plenty of time to take stock of a large fleet of Dutch ships of all sorts which had weighed anchor with us at the turn of the tide. This ohannel, by the way, is always interesting owing to the great and varied traffic it carries. Gallant little tugs tow in their wake big Bhinish lighters of enormous length, which latter seem almost to give credence to the old saüor's yarn about ships being built by the mile and cut off as wanted. Next can be seen a little covey of brownsailed nshing boats, then two or three ketch-rigged traders making leisurely progress, while ever and anon a comfortable passenger steamer threads its rapid way between the other craft on its journey from one little port to another. The landscape hereabouts is truly Dutch. Across the low-lying country with its characteristic windmiüs and its church spires, visible for miles, the breeze comes as 8teadily as across the sea itself. To-day we were bound for Gouda, but the delay of 1^ hours at the Dordrecht railway bridge had to make us content with a less ambitious objective. Up to the present these railway bridges, which fortunately are few and far between, have been the only real drawbacks to yachting in Holland. The "reason for this being due not so much to their presence, but rather to the difficulty of finding out when they will be opened. Hitherto one has been more or less in the position of a man without a timetable going to railway station on the off chance of finding a convenient train. I have put this matter before the directory of the Information Office for Tourists (45 Lange Voorhout, The Hague) who has taken up the question. They will, I am informed, publish from time to time a list of the railway bridges in Holland with the hours at which each will be opened. Thus one will be able to make one's arrangements beforehand and so save much tiresome waiting and uncertainly.
As we journeyed along the deep and broad waterways that connect Dordrecht with the Hollandsche IJssel we noticed on the banks much snip building activity and the ringing of many hammers formed an almost continuous chorus. At one place several large double-decked river steamers were being completed, which to judge by their names were intended for South America. Motor barges, so seldom seen in England, were much in evidence in various stages



HOOGAARTS.






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of construction. They are mostly fitted, I believe, with semi-Diesel engines of Dutch manufacture. On reaching the Hollandsche IJssel an adverse tide caused us to make slow progress. The river itsdf is narrow and winding, and as it carries a good deal of small traffic careful navigation is essential. At the lowest tide we have always found plenty of water for our draught, so we Went on tül dark, when we reached the little village of Ouderkerk.
The following day being Saturday (June lst) we resolved if possible to reach Amsterdam so as to spend Sunday in that interesting capital. Consequently at 7 a. m. we once more calledupon the motor, and in a short time we found ourselves at Gouda. The lock at this place is always crowded, and as if is at right angles to a tidal river considerable care is necessary. The lock-master, however, invariably looks upon yachts with a kindly eye. So scarcely had we time to take in a fresh supply of paraffin from a store hard by, before we were permitted to enter the lock. The great and peculiar glory of Gouda is the famous stained glass to be found in the big church, but as we were in a hurry we had to leave this until our return journey. Our movements being still more hastened by the fact that the railway bridge, a mile or more beyond the town, Wouldbe opened at 11 o'clock. The canal, where it passes through the town of Gouda, is somewhat narrow, and, as the traffic is great, considerable care is necessary. Furthermore, just on the outskirts of the place one has to take a very sharp turn to the left and pass through a swing bridge. There fore let me advise any reader who may find himself here to keep a very sharp look-out for the turn and to sound his fog-horn in good time, so as to give notice of his approach to the bridgeman. The canal now became considerably wider and as we passed along its sinuous bends we overhauled a local yacht. In my experience a Dutch yacht-owner invariably speaks English and is ever ready to impart useful advice to the stranger. Subsequently when we found ourselves both waiting for the railway bridge to be opened our newly found friend most kindly gave us much interesting information. We were not long delayed here and were soon proceeding merrily along this waterway under motor power and headsails. Pretty villages and hamiets succeeded one another,but the only place worthy of particular note is Boskoop. Here a swing bridge crosses
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the canal at a sharp and narrow turning, so great caution is necessary. As it was we had to stop somewhat quickly to allow a barge to come through from the opposite diiection which had appeared suddenly round the bend. Yachtsmen who are fond of horticulture will find this vülage immensely attractive, for the whole place, and a large tract of land all round it, is given up to this art. As the country hereabouts is below the level of the canal the view to be obtained from a yacht's deck is very pleasing. But I will refer more fully to tbis subject when I deal with our return journey, when we had an opportunity of seeing some of the best nurseries. A few miles beyond there is a railway bridge which is nearly always open as the traffic over it is very small. This is soon folio wed by a lock, just before entering the Old Bhine, which is, I believe, never closed except during the floods of winter. On reaching this point there are three distinct courses open to him who wishes to reach Amsterdam. In the first place he can go via Uithoorn and the Amstel river, but this is a route not advised by Dutch yacht-owners, for it involves the passing of many bridges in the most important ports of Amsterdam. Secondly one may go by the Braassemer Meer, and Aalsmeer. The disadvantage of pursuing this course is that the railway bridge at the extreme north-east end of Amsterdam is only opened after one a. m. for a few hours and the canal leading up to it is decidedly odoriferous. On the other hand it is a quick way of mening the city. The third route is considerably longer than the other two, but it is much more interesting as it passes through the fine old town of Haarlem. To gain that place the quickest way to proceed is by the Braassemer Meer, but, if time does not press, yachtsmen will be well advised to go to Leiden, whence The Hague can be reached by train, but not by yachts with fixed masts. Subsequently the journey from Leiden to Haarlem may be resumed by the Kaager Meer. In discussing these various ways of reaching Amsterdam I have assumed in each case that the starting place will be Gouda. For English sea-going yachts usually have standing masts, so that the route via Rotterdam, Delfshaven, Delft, the Hague and Leiden, would be impossible owing to the fixed bridges just mentioned. The same may be said of the principal waterway, the Merwede canal, which connects Utrecht to Amsterdam, and, furthermore, this latter way would take a yacht very far inland by a circuitous route.



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But it may be as well to mention that yachts with standing masts wishing to reach the Hague, and to go no farther north, can proceed there via Delfshaven and Delft when drawing not more than 6| feet. There is a good harbour at the Hague called the Laakhaven.
When we arrived at the old Rhine we decided to proceed via Aalsmeer, as we were anxious to reach Amsterdam with as little delay as possible, for we were bound to be at Kiel for the International Begetta. The Bhine at this point is a sluggish and peaceful waterway carrying its fair share of traffic. It is controlled by the occasional opening of the sluices adjacent to the sea at Katwijk. The district around would be discribed as residential in England, and numerous pretty country homes dot the banks interspersed with signs of considerable commercial activity in the way of small manufacturies such as potteries, and brick-works, milk-factories and the inevitable barge building. Several swing bridges exist hereabouts and those in charge of them follow the invariable custom in Holland of suspending a little wooden shoe at the end of a kind of fishing rod and line. Into this a small coin must be placed, and, except in very rare instances, two pence is sufficiënt to pay the toll, sometimes less. Theréfore a good supply of Dutch money to that value should be carried, and the little ten cent pieoe, usually called "dubbeltje," seems almost made for the purpose. On certain canals the bridges are entirely free, as invariably are the railway bridges, and then no little sabot will be dangled before one's eyes. The old Bhine widens out just beyond Oudshoorn, and, shortly afterwards,one has to turn sharply to the right to enter the cutting that takes one to the Braassemer Meer. This sheet of water is one of the finest in Holland, if we take into consideration that it has a good depth cverywhere except at its extreme northern end. In this respect if differs from the meers of Friesland which are only to be crossed by narrow buoyed and dredged channels. On entering the Braassemer Meer we encountered what a. sailor would describe as a strong hard wind, and, as this was almost dead ahead we had to supplement the efforts of our engine by setting the mainsail. We now beat up the lake in fine style, but on reaching its northern hmit, which is buoyed, we narrowly escaped running aground. Our experience in this direction may be useful to others. The black buoys which should be left to starboard had become so whitened by the deposit









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of birds that they strongly resembled the white port hand tuoys. Therefore some caution should be observed at this spot. Shortly after this incident we came to the canal which passes round the polder that was once the Haarlemmer Meer. This is entered at right angles. The left hand course takes one to Haarlem, the other one, which we pursued, to Aalsmeer and Amsterdam. The country in the immediate vicinity of the route we now took, consisting as it does of long stretches of reclaimeddand, was the most uninteresting through which we passed. Therefore we were glad to reach the bright nursery gardens of Aalsmeer, where are also to be seen clipped box and yew figures of curious shape. The produce of pretty flowers is invariably carried to Amsterdam in boats. Often one sees a little fleet of these craft in some quiet canal in the city, where their brilliant cargoes from a charming and effective contrast to the sombre grey of the canal and the old gabled houses. Later on our waterway oent to the right at a place where there is a branch canal to Sloten. At this point yachtsmen should keep well over to the left for there is a considerable breadth of water here, much of which is shallow. As we were in a hurry we brought up just outside the Overtoom lock which is situated in one of the suburbs of Amsterdam. This place is handy enough, but unfortunately the water is far from pure. By tram the city can be reached in a few minutes, but localYachtsmen never remain here as they seek the clean and pleasant yacht harbour on the Y. We were soon ashore, and, by the means indicated, we found ourselves byhalf past seven atBembrandt's Plein, where, as in the other principal parts oi the city, excellent restaurants are to be found. At dinner we congratulated ourselves on our good luck in having made such capital progress during the day. By the Way, the hour of dining in Holland is earlier than in England, and, if one wishes to avail oneself of table d'hóte, it will be found that this meal is not served after 7.30 p. m., and in some cases especialiy in the smaller towns the limit is half an hour earlier.
On the following day (Sunday) we observed that the good Dutch folk are great church-goers and that the various religious denominations are well catered for in the fine old city of Amsterdam. It is worthy of note, that in a country which most Englishmen associate with the severest forms of Protestantism, fully one third



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of the population are Roman Catholics, but these latter are by no means evenly scattered. Naturally enough they are found in plenty on the Belgian frontier. But one is somewhat surprised to notice that they abound in certain villages of Nbrth Holland, notably Volendam. During the afternoon we went to the yacht club, Koninklijke Nederlandsche Zeil- & Roeivereeniging (Boyal Netherlands Sailing and Bowing Glub), to make mquiries for the purpose of obtaining a pilot for the Zuider Zee and the Friesland meers. It is by no means easy to get hold of a man to answer the dual purpose, and, if any difficulty be experienced under this head, it is not a bad plan to take one pilot for the Zuider Zee and another for Friesland, when that province has been reached. But let me impress on my readers, that though a yacht of moderate draft may be taken without outside help as for as Amsterdam, local assistance is certainly required when navigating beyond this place. For the Zuider Zee does not obey the ordinary laws, and whereas the rise and fall of tide especially in the southern portions is remarkably small, the force and direction of the wind may vary the depth to a very large extent. Again, the canals and meers in Friesland are very intrioate and should not be attempted by a stranger in a yacht of even medium depth. It has occurred to me in these days, when insurance forms such a prominent topic of discussion in England, to wonder how one stands in Dutch law with respect to pilote. I do not think that there has yet arisen in Holland a Lloyd George to provide a gummy feast. On the other hand, I believe, theré is some kind of workmen's compensation act. *)
Amsterdam is too well known and too much written of in guide books to require any detailed information here. It will therefore suffice to say that perhaps the great feature of the place is the Bijks Museum. Within its stately walls can be seen many of Rembrandt's masterpieces and those of other great Dutch painters. As one wonders through this and other galleries in Holland enjoy-
*) The employer is obliged to see that the places where the workmen are employed and the machinery and tools they use are kept in good order, so that every possible care is taken against accidents. If a workman is injured, or killed, trough the employer's neglect, the former, his wife, children, or parents are entitled to damages, when an accident is due to the workman's negligence, or to unforeseen circumstances, no compensation is payable.



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ing the chief works of men who se names will live f orever, it is sad to reflect that not a few of them ended their lives in absolute penury. Rembrandt and the jovial Franz Hals were typical examples. It is pathetic to notice that the latter in particular had to use his brush long after the hand that wielded it had lost its cunning.
A stroll through the city of Amsterdam is an interesting experience. Almost every other street in this Venice of the Nbrth has its tree-shaded canal. The old gabled houses stand at all sorts of angles out of the perpendicular which gives a curious and irregular appearance to many of the ancient thoroughfares. If one comes to an open place, where a new house is about to be erected, the reason for this state of affairs is at once apparent. It will be observed that there are no natural foundations, so somewhat precarious support has to be obtained by the driving in of numerous piles. Hence the old saying that the.inhabitants of Amsterdam live on the tops of trees. The Kalverstraat is the Bond street of Amsterdam and should not be missed by yachting folk of either sex.
On Monday we shifted our quarters to the vicinity of the railway bridge and during the early hours of the next morning, when it was opened, we passed on to the yacht harbour which is situated on a broad waterway called the T. This is a capital little haven for pleasure craft, for the water here is quite clean, which is not the case near the Overtoom lock, as previously mentioned, and the general arrangements for the convenience of yachtsmen are excellent. Furthermore, a short walk takes one to the trams, so thecentreof the city, that is the square known as the Dam, is within easy reach. We got under way once more about mid-day on.Tuesday, and passing through the Orange locks we soon found ourselves making rapid progress up the Zuider Zee, aided by a strong southerly wind. The island of Marken, with its somewhat artii'icial attractions, was left to port and then we sailed a straight course for Eiikhuizen, where the tide runs with great strength across the mouth of the harbour. The great Dromedary Tower at this place is easily distinguished, when far out to sea. At 6.30 p. m. we were under its shadows, and, having paid our harbour dues, we were presented with a pleasing token in the shape of a leaden medal with the arms of the town



George Goulet
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George Goulet






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(three fishes) stamped upon it. Enkhuizen isdescribedinguidebooks as one of the dead cities of the Zuider Zee. This always seems to me somewhat of a misnomer, for althotigh the importance of this port has greatly decreased since the seventeenth century, yet there are ample signs of prosperity at the present time. During our stay the fishing industry showed remarkable aetivity, and, as a market town, the place evidently does a thriving trade with the surrounding agricultural districts. The keeper of the hotel where we dined told me that the population was slowly increasing, and when I suggested to him that it might one day attain the original 40.000 he laughingly replied he thought the process would be a lengthy one. The Stadhuis and Westerkerk represent its ancient glories, while the very large seed-growing industry, which is carried on in theimmediate vicinity, may be considered its chief modern, but almost unrecognised, charm. On the other hand we so often hear of the great splashes of colour to be seen around Haarlem in the tulip season. Apparently it still remains for some writer to "discover" and eulogise the flowery fields of Enkhuizen. These, at any rate, have one very real advantage over those of Haarlem, in that they are at their best in the warm August weather, while the former must be visited during "the uncertain glories of an April day", when the climate in the vicinity of the North Sea is usually far from genial.
On our way to Enkhuizen it was with very real regret that we were compelled to pass by Hoorn without entering the harbour. But time pressed, and we wished to make as much use as possible of the fair wind we experienced. We just caught sight of its spires ih the distance which reminded us of the very pleasant visit we paid to the place during the previous summer. But as events will show we subsequently took the first fleetingchancetorenewouracquaintance with this fine old town. Let me impress'on my readers that no yachting cruise in this part of Holland could be considered complete with Hoorn left out, for it may be regarded as the queen of the Zuider Zee ports, and in real charm is a formidable rival to any others throughout the length and breadth of Holland. In this opinion I am backed up by such a very high authority as Mr. E. V. Lucas who says : "Everyone is agreed that Hoorn should be approached by water because it rises from the sea like an enchanted city of the East, with its spires and its Harbour Tower beautifully unreal.



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And as the snip comes nearer there is the additional interest of wondering how the apparently landlocked harbour is to be entered, a long green bar seeming to stretch unbrokenly from side to side. At the last minute the passage is revealed, and one glides into this romantic port. I put Hoorn next to Middelburg in the matter of charm, but seen from the sea it is of greater fascination. In many ways Hoorn is more remarkable as a town, but more of my heart belongs to Middelburg."
The next day (Wednesday June 5th) was the only one during our entire cruise on which we were held up by bad weather. But with a less cautious pilot I expect we should not have had much difficulty in making our passage. As it was we passed the time very pleasantly by taking train toHoorn, which by the way, is also describèd as a dead city. It struck us as being even more alive than the one we had just left. It is somewhat larger than the latter and does a flourishing trade in the famous cheeses of the district. Near the harbour we came upon many warehouses full of these delicacies and watched them being shipped into barges. Like its neighour Enkhuizen, it is possessed of a fine harbour tower (as mentioned by Mr. Lucas) and many interesting old buildings. I purposely refrain from giving sailing directions for these Zuider Zee ports as this treacherous sea should not be attempted without the aid of a pilot, as I have already pointed out. Our draught enabled us to enter many of them at any time and may be considered the maximum for really comfortable cruising in this inland sea.
The next day, the weather having abated somewhat, we got under way about mid-day, and with a favourable wind it was not long before we found ourselves at Stavoren. The village itself is small and of little consequence, but the harbour is well kept up, for it is used by the ferry steamers that run in connection with the trains at this place and Enkhuizen. In fact, this is the nearest route from Amsterdam to Leeuwarden and other towns in the province of Friesland. Stavoren along with Lemmer and Harlingen form the most important places giving access to the canals and meers cf Friesland. Before discussing the respective merits of the different routes that start from these places, it may be said once more that the maximum draught of a yacht wishing to proceed inland to Groningen should not exceed 5$ feet, while even this depth may be



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found to be too much in an exceptionally dry summer. The principal waterways from Lemmer and Stavoren are oonnected together in the vicinity of the Sneeker Meer, and my experience leads me to think that the route via Stavoren offers the better advantage in the way of depth and the more interesting journey. As regards proceeding by Harlingen, one has the advantage at first of somewhat deeper water, and one passes trough the fine town of Leeuwarden, the capital of the province of Friesland. But whichever way is selected the somewhat shallow Bergumer meer must be crossed, for I assume that no one for choice would wish to go farther north and encounter the tidal waters of the Lauwers Zee. In order to see as much as possbile of the well-known Friesland meers we made up our minds to proceed via Harlingen, and subsequently to return via Stavoren. Therefore, on thé following day we set sail for Harlingen and once again we made a quick passage, as the wind favoured us. Harlingen differs essentially from the other Zuider Zee ports, which I have mentioned, in that the ships of many nations enter its harbour, while the spheres of infhience of the other towns are pnrely local. Consequently Harlingen is an excellent place for taking in supplies.
On arrival we went ashore for shopping purposes, and also to obtain from the post-office the permit to use the provincial waters of Friesland, to which place we had requested that it might be sent. But let me now distinctly state that such permission is no longer necessary, for quite recently this matter has been placed in the hands of the lock-masters who are empowered to admit any snip of suitable size.
Armed with a good supply of fresh provisionswesoonreturned to the yacht. Here we came upon a décidedly amusing scène. A Dutchman with a large codling was endeavouring to sell it to our skipper, who, being a fisherman by trade, considers himself an authority on the price of such goods. Neither could speak a word of the others language. So the bargain was procseeding by the Dutchman holding up the fish every now and then to be admired by the skipper who made depreciating remarks thereon, quite unintelligible to the would-be vendor. The latter evidently regarded the pecuniary inducements resting on the palm of my man's hand. as quite unworthy of so noble a fish. I managed, however, to effect a oom-



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promise, and jumping on board soon had the engine running. The canal before leaving the town is somewhat narrow and twisting, consequently the reverse lever had to be brought freely into actdon before we found ourselves in the open country. Although the proportion of water to land must be very large in this province of Friesland, yet that fluid, when required for drinking purposes, is very difficult to obtain. Outside the larger towns rainwater is mostly used, and this in some measure accounts for the generous extent of roof to be seen over all the farmhouses. In fact on any one holding all the buildings appear to be concentrated in one structure which gives a very characteristic appearance to this part of Holland. The rainwater thus collected is naturally somewhat precious during the summer months. Therefore, although the inhabitants are kind to a degree, it is not fair to tax them too much is this respect, so the wise yachtsman will hare his breakers and his tanks filled at those towns which are provided with waterworks.
Our course now took us through an essento'ally pastoral country, celebrated for its agricultural products. One noticeable point in this connection is that the cattle have a striking uniformity, and whereas in England one may see several different sorts in the course of a day's journey, here in Holland a black and white breed of medium size reigns suprème. Sheep are not very plentiful, and in these low-lying fields I expect it would be difficult to keep them healthy. By the Way, in this part of Europe in general mutton is difficult to obtain, for the inhabitants appear to have a marked aversion to it, and regard it in something the same way as many English people do veal. What mutton is produced is expoited, I was given to understand. The methods of farming naturally vary to those practiced on this side of the North Sea, and as we pursued onr leisurely way to Leeuwarden we had ample opportunity to observe the differences. We passed Franeker, a clean and pleasant town which possesses a great curiosity in the shape of an astronomical model showing the motions of the planets, the sun, and the moon. Leeuwarden was reached during the afternoon, and as we had to be off early the next morning we made the most of our time. We should have liked to have stopped longer, for its fine streets and the famous shops of its süversmitha are decidedly attraotive.









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The museum is most interesting, as it contains some of the celebrated furniture of Hindeloopen, and other local wares of repute.
The following morning saw us under way at an early hour, for Groningen was to be our goal. In this canal work, where smooth water is assured, we never troubled to have breakfast before an early start, as this meal could be just as well served while the miles were being reduced. We had not long been under way when an incident happened which may serve as a warning to others. It is the rule on the Dutch waterways thafc vessels waiting for a railway bridge to be opened must keep some distan ce away form the structure. At a bridge of this description no great way from Leeuwarden, our pilot for some reason best known to himself so placed the yacht that. the top-mast forestay was practically touching the permanent way. Af ast train came along a minute or too afterwards, andluckily for us it carried no projection that could catch our wire. Just afterwards the bridgeman appeared, and gave our pilot a good "telling off," to use a favourite army phrase. Under the circumstances our would-be mentor richly deserved it. We now came to some curious pieces of water which appeared to be half canal and half meer, the channel being defined by beacons on shore. It struck me as just the sort of place where a stranger might get into trouble, for much of the surrounding water was very shallow. Presently we reached the Bergumer Meer, the largest sheet of water in this part of Friesland. The entrance to it próved to be particularly treacherous, and we got aground somewhat badly as we were urged on by the motor and a smart leading wind in the head sails. As a guide to others I may say we should have kept quite close to a big beacon on the port hand which subsequently proved most useful as a warping post. After a good deal of effort, at which I was not sorry so see the pilot got a warm jacket, we eventually returned to the narrow way. We now passed through the same pleasant pastoral scènes as on the previous day. It seems difficult to imagine that many of these peaceful pastores have at one time or another been the scènes of bloody battles. Li fact, it would scarcely be an exaggeration to say that every field, both here and in the other provinces of Holland, has at some period of history been a battle-field. Not very far ahead of us was Heiligerlee, where the Dutch obtained their fitst victory on



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land over the Spaniards in 1568. The war, or rather series of wars, that followed speak much for Dutch bravery, for the Spaniards were capable of almost superhuman valour, as was shown by their conquest of Peru and Mexico. Before peace was declared Holland had organised a very fine army, but what always seems remarkable to me, as a former cavalry offreer, is that Prince Maurice of Nassau, son of William the Silent, was able to put into the field some of the finest cavalry in Europe. Por a country less suited than Holland mostly is for the training of mounted men could scarcely be imagined. After this digression let us make haste to get to Groningen at which place we arrived with not a great deal of daylight to spare, for we experienced somè delay at bridges during the last mile or two.
Groningen forms a worthy capital to the province of the same name, and we resolved to spend the following day (Sunday) here. It is a first rate place to obtain creature comforts, -as the shops are excellent and there are several good hotels. The town boasts many fine churches besides a TJniversity and museum. During the afternoon we wandered through a long and wellwooded park once the site of the former fortifications. During the summer months a band often plays in these sylvan glades.
On Monday we had to tear ourselves way from such deüghts. As we had a deep water canal in front of us we got rid of our pilot. Before starting we paid toll for all the bridges between here and Delfzyl at the rate of two pence each. This is an exellent arrangement as it saves all trouble on the way and might I thihk with advantage be applied elsewhere. We soon reeled off the sixteen and a half miles to Delfzijl, along a very straight canal which admits vessels up to 13 feet draft. When we reached the Ems, which forms the frontier, a Dutch pilot cheered us on by telling us that on our arrival in Germany we should most certainly be seized as spies. As a matter of fact both at Emden, which we reached on the same day, and at other German towns we were treated most kindly. But it is not now my purpose to deal with our adventures in Germany. But in order to show what a long strip of the treacherous North Sea is cut off by proceeding through the peaceful waterways of Holland, when a yacht is bound from the south coast of England to the Baltic, I may say that the journey from the Ems to the entrance of the Kiel Canal, on the



35
Elbe, is but little more than a good day's sail under favourable circumstances. We found the little harbour at jNbrderney on the island of the same name a convenient stopping place en route. I will now skip over the time we spent at Kiel and resumé by saying that on Monday morning (Jury lst) we got under way for our homeward journey from Groningen. Our plans were so made as to cover as much new ground as possible, and our alternative route may be useful to others in search of various methods of passing through Holland.
At Kiel I met a friend who told me that the harbour-master at Harlingen was a right good fellow with a great command of English, and that if I wrote to him he would no doubt be able to obtain a pilot for us. As this suggestion would save the time and expense involved by getting a man from Amsterdam, it was carried out. Consequently our pilot joined us at Groningen early on Monday, as he came by the first train from Harlingen. I append his name and address which are as follows: W. de Vries, Havenplein 20, Harlingen. For it is not easy, as previously stated, to get hold of a man who knows both the meers and the Zuider Zee^ and this one, moreover, proved to be a quiet, respectable, and competent fellow. It was a pity he did not know more of the English language, but we taught him a little while he was on board, and I suggested to him that that excellent English scholar, the harbour master at Harlingen, might put him in the way of improving his knowledge in this respect.
In pursuance of our policy of seeking fresh fields and pastures new we resolved to return by Sneek, which would take us some distance to the south of Leeuwarden. Our start was somewhat delayed by engine trouble, so we had to be content to bring up for the night at a hamlet not far from the Bergumer Meer. Our presence created quite a sensation and all the inhabitants turned out to see such a strange sight as an English sea-going yacht tied up at their front doors. Parties of children rowed by in boats, while people on shore gravely discussed such a strange apparition. One or two had a few words of English, this together with my wife's German and my very slight knowledge of the Dutch language, enabled us to carry on quite a lively conversation, and also to make a ,few purchases at the local shop.



36
As we intended, if possible, to get to Sneek on the following day the engine was called npon at 8 a. m. On reaching the Bergumer Meer we enconntered a violent thnnderstorm. After this there was little or no wind, so we had to pnt our trust entdrely in the motor. We passed through a country which a stranger would find most difficult, for there are so many canals and waterways of one sort and another, that local knowledge is essential in order that the proper tairnings may be taken. We presently reached the quaint old village of Grouw, and regretted that we had no time to thoroughly explore the place. The railway bridge, just beyond. was opened as we approached it, so we were soon traversing the canal that runs through the charming village of Ernsum, full of neat little cottages with gay gardens. Then came the Sneeker Meer, afine piece of water with a good channel leading through it. We had been under way just twelve hours when we arrived at Sneek, which proved to be a most fascinating town. We went ashore at once in order to make the most of the daylight that was left, for we were bent on seeing, among other things, the far-famed water-gate. This quite came up to our expectations. It is a beautifully proportioned buüding, most happily situated, and at one time must have most efficiently guarded the watery entrance to the town. During our wanderings we discovered, by chance, a pottery, where skilied workmen produce vases of charming shape and beautifully coloured.
Early the next morning we journeyed to Stavoren, pursued by heavy thunderstoims and torrential rain. On reaching the Zuider Zee matters improved and a strong leading wind took us into the fishing haibour at Volendam, as the lights of the place were beginning to make their appearance. To say that this village draws artists from all parts of the world is only the simple truth. The Volendam costumes, both of the man and women, are particularly picturesque in their local peculiarities. The fishermen themselves are fine fellows and their hale and weather-beaten countenances are well suited by their dress. One of the inns (Hotel Spaander) contams an excellent collection of pictures, the gift of its many guests at various tdrnes. The harbour itself is shallow,









37
but it can usually be entered by a yacht of our draught in charge of one who knows the place.
• The next afternoon saw us at Amsterdam, where our pilot left us, and on the following morning we started home by a route which, as far as sight-seeing is concerned, is the most interesting way of reaching Gouda from the ïïorth. Therefore I will describe it in some detail. We first of all went down the Nbrth Sea Canal, where the railway bridge, just below Amsterdam, never gives much trouble, as far as my experience goes, and this occasion proved no exception to the rule. Soon after passing it, we turned to the left along a canal that took us Spaarndam. Some care is necessary at this place, as there are two locks with channels leading thereto, and it is important not to go outside the boomed channels. The smaller lock which we selected is on the starboard hand and is characterised by a curious curve in its formation. A broadwaterway, on which are some port hand buoys, led us to the railway bridge at the entrance of Haarlem. As we heard that this structure was not to be opened untü late in the evening we resolved to stop just on the north side of it, where we found a convenient berth within a few minutes walk of the town. Haarlem is distinctly one of those places that should not be missed by the yachtsman in Holland. It contains a grand old church, in which the curious may see a cannon ball embedded in one of the inner walls, reminiscent of a terrible Spanish siege in 1572—73. In the new Frans Hals Museum will be found the finest collection of that master's pictures in the world. This jovial artist may be seen at his best in a work representing an Assembly of the officers of the Arquebusiers of St. Andrew. It was a great pity that he was compelled to again take up his brush in his old age, for some of his last pictures, as seen here, lack the freedom and vigour of his earlier days. The suburbs of Haarlem are full of pretty gardens, and in the south of the town there is a fine park in which a band generally plays on Sunday afternoons. The neighbouring villages, such as Overveen. Heemstede, and Bennebroek are names to conjure with in the bulb-growing world. ^feSl
Our stay in this pleasant town was all too short, for the next day we passed down the canal to the Kaager Meer and then brought up in the month of the Zand Sloot, a narrow and shallow waterway



38
that leads up to the village of Sassenheim. Our reason for stopping here was that we had resolved to see something at first hand of the great bulb-growing industry. During the afternoon we visited some of the best nurseries in the locality and were very much interested in all we saw. The growers are great linguists, as they do an international trade, therefore the different processes were fully and clearly explained to us. The following day, being Sunday, we attended service at one of the large churches in the village and later on completed the short distance that separated us from Leiden. This town boasts of a famous university and the place generally wears a sedate air as becomes a great seat of learning. The Hague can be reached very quickly from here by rail, so we spent a delightful day at this seat of the Dutch Government which also contains a Eoyal Residence. As so important a place is very fully dealt with in all the guide books a detailed description is not necessary. But let no one miss the Mauritshuis, wich contains a remarkably fine collection of pictures. All the great Dutch masters are worthily represented, and among the smaller works which must not be overlooked is an exquisite picture by Gerard Dou, entitled "The Toung Housekeeper", which is peculiarly attractive and refined. We also found time to see something of the now Peace Palace which is shortly to be opened, and to walk through the Buitenhof to the Gevangenpoort, the scènes of the two terrible tragedies in Dutch history. Por in the former Prince Maurice of Nassau stained his brilliant reputation by bringing about. the execution of the Grand Pensionary John van Oldenbarneveld, while outside the latter were murdered Cornelis and John de Witt by an infuriated populace in 1671, when William of Orange was Stadtholder (afteiwards King of England).
On Tuesday (July 9th) we motored up the Old Bhine and soon came upon our original track. At lunch time we reached Boskoop. Here we stopped in order to explore some of the nursery gardens. Once again we had an opportunity of examimng very thoroughly the local products. The results of an enquiry showed us that the growers at this place specialise in only the choicest sorts of conifers, foliage, and flowering shrubs, leaving the commoner kinds, and those easily produced, to be grown elsewhere. What



39
particularly struck me was the fine collections of trees of glaucous hue. Afterwards we made snch good progress that we reached Gouda in time to see the famous stained glass in the great church which we had missed when outward bound. The gems of the collection, twelve in number, were executed by Wouter and Dirk Crabeth between 1555—77. The beauty of the colouring makes one regret that glass staining has become almost a lost art in these days. But I am pleased to hear that the industry is in active revival, especiaily at Delft.
The next day (July lOth) proved to be the record one of our cruise, as far as the distance travelled was concerned. Somewhere about the weird hour of 3 a. m., I turned out of my bunk and with the aid of my electric torch started the motor. There was little or no wind, in fact we experienced only f ickle airs thoroughout the day. In the half light we slipped down the river, the Hollandsche IJsel, favoured with the first of the ebb tide. On reaching Slikkerveer on the Lek I went ashore and soon came upon a farmhouse, where a kindly dame supplied me with milk for breakfast. We were in luck's way at Dordrecht, for we waited no more than ten minutes for the opening of the railway bridge. The tide was now against us, so we made somewhat slow progress until Willemstad was nearly reached. But when the ebb set in our favour our pace increased so much that at sunset we were able to bring up near the entrance of the Sand Creek, close to the little village of Kats on the island of North Beveland. As soon as we had finished our dinner we went ashore. Not far from our landing place we found a large farm-house, where we secured a supply of milk for the morrow. We then walked to Kats, and much to our surprise we found it like a place of the dead. Every door was shut, not a light was to be seen, not a voice to be heard. "Early to bed and early to rise" was evidently the motto here, so we retraced our steps.
The next day we arrived at Flushing, and on the following one at Ostende. So our Dutch cruise was over, and both my wife and myself agreed that never had we enjoyed a voyage more than this one. In fact, it was with genuine regret we left behind us those wide estuaries and quiet canals, where we had seen so much to interest us. It is really no exaggeration to write that the more one cruises in Holland the more fascinated does one become with



40
the country and its ever kindly inhabitants. This is no mere pious opinion, for in my own case I was led to build a yacht expressely suited to Dutch waterways. Again, a cruise in the Netherlands has the sovereign advantage of giving one a thorough change, and one is able to get off the beaten track of the regular holidaymaker. That individual has succeeded in penetrating into almost every yachting port great and small around our coasts and on the Continent. In fact it is no exaggeration to say that the tone of nearly every seaside place has been sensibly lowered during recent years. For the tripper is welcomed everywhere to a greater or less degree. This certainly holds good during the summer months, although some towns attain a higher level in the winter. Many of us in our early days could name along our South Coast villages whose quiet beauty was quite unspoilt. How different are things to-day, when flaring advertisements have done their work. The same process is going on more or less all over Western Europe, for the magnet of the sea attracts increasing numbers of inland dwellers. Consequently if one wishes to free oneself from the madding crowd one must go away from the coast. In England this is almost impossible in a yacht, for, practically speaking, the many charming towns and villages tobe found in certain districts, for instance in "dear delightful Wessex", are inaccessible by water. The same thing applies to nearly all picturesque neighbourhoods. On the other hand the place that cannot be reached by canal in Holland is very much the exception to the rule. Thus one can explore many a charming town without being surrounded by a noisy crowd of holiday-makers. The placid waterways of that country are seldom disturbed by excursion steamers, and therefore the natural charm of one's surroundings is seldom spoilt.
In the space at my disposal it has only been possible to deal with some of the principal waterways which form a chain connecting one end of Holland to the other. It must be left to each individual yachtsman to make pleasant discoveries for bimself along the less frequented routes according to the size and type of his ship. In this respect some of the charm would be lost, if complete knowledge were acquired bef orehand. For it is, indeed, a happy experienceto stumble quite unexpectedly on some quaint old world village, or to findsome artistic treasures, where one anticipated merely the commonplace.









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Lastly I will draw my readers attention to a few publications which will be found most useful when cruising in the Netherlands. Commencing with charts, I may say that the British Admirality pubhsh two of large scale, which practically take in all the navigable channels between Botterdam and Flushing. They are numbered 120 and 122 respectively. On the other hand the English chart of the Zuider Zee is too small to be of much use, but the Dutch Government publish an excellent one (No. 212) which covers that inland sea as far north as Harlingen. The latter can be obtained from Messrs Van Cleef, Brothers, Hofspui, The Hague. These well-known booksellers can also supply the maps of Holland, which correspond to those issued by our Ordnance Survey. The scale is, roughly speaking, rather more than one inch to the mile. They will be found useful in defining'the way in those parts of the country in which there are a great many branch canals, but they are rather too cumbersome for general purposes. Consequently for ordinary canal work the smaller district maps and charts, published by J. Kuyper and other private firms, which are easily obtained in any Dutch town, should be purchased, as they will usually be sufficiënt for the purpose. As regards books, our Admiralty's "North Sea Pilot" part. IV, will, of course, be carried, while the inland routes not covered by this work will be found mentioned in some detail in "A Yachtsman's Guide to the Dutch Waterways" by T. E. Thorpe (Edward Stanford, London). For shore-going purposes Baedeker's "Belgium and Holland" is most exhaustive, bnt for quicker reference and more sympathetic treatment let me recommend "A Wanderer in Holland" by E. V. Lucas. Finally I would add that a Dutch dictionary should find a place in the yacht's bookcase, as this often saves thetiouble of looking for an interpreter.
Since writing the above a question has come to hand as to the speed allowed on Dutch canals. So I may add that this varies not only on different canals, but also in proportion to the draught of a ship. The General Regulations printed in English and the Special Regulations dealing with each waterway are always obtainable at the offices at the entrance lock to each canal. But it may be said unreasonable speed limits will never be found in Holland, as far as marine motorists are concerned.



Besides the routes described by Mr. Rumbold we recommend the following ones to yachtsmen visiting Holland, as they will prove most interesting. *)
I. LEEUWARDEN — LEMMER — KAMPEN — ZWOLLE.
The depth in Friesland is the depth in summer; sometimes it is 20 c.M. less.
From Leeuwarden to Sneek through the Trekvaart. This vaart leaves the main canal from Harlingen to Leeuwarden near the latter place. It is 22.2 K.M. long, 14 to 25 M. wide, 17 d.M. deep. There are two fixed bridges, one at Boxumer Dam and one at Werdumer hout, 2.95 M. above the waterlevel, and 5.4 M. wide.
From Sneek to 't Oudhof there is a short canal 5.1 K.M. long, running southwards. It is 12 M. wide and has a depth of 17 d.M.
The route from 't Oudhof to Lemmer is via Boornzwaag and the Tjeuker Meer, the navigable passage through which is 20 to 30 M. wide and 1.8 d.M. deep. One leaves this Meer at Oosterzee, thence to Lemmer by the main canal. The lock at Lemmer, connecting with the Zuider Zee is 50 M. long, 8 M. wide, and 20.3 d.M. deep.
From Lemmer to the Kamper Ketel, or Keteldiep, the course is S. JW. along the west coast of the island Schokland and the distance to the south end of this island is 13 J sea miles, the depth being from 28 to 35 d.M.
Schokland, an island between Urk and the east coast of the Zuider Zee, is about 2£ miles long and less than half a mile broad. It is occasionally flooded by storms and high tides. It has a harbour Emmeloord, at the north end of the island with a depth of 15 d.M.
Lights. A white and red fixed light standing on the north end of the island, near Emmeloord, 11.9 M. above high water, shows
*) The routes now td be considered will be found, generally speaking, particularly well suited to small fully-powered motor yachts with lowering masts.



43
white (visible 11 miles) from N 49° E through east and south to S 8° W, red, (visible 4 miles) from S 8° Wto S15° W, and again white from S 15° W through west to N 26° W. The red sector serves to indicate the shallows at the north end of the island, the middle of this sector showing over the gas-buoy with stunted conical topmark No. 8. On the south end of this island, is a fixed white light, 16 M. above high water, visible 12 miles, except over the island, where it is obscured from S 16° W to S 27° W. The fog signal is a bell struck 36 times a minute.
From the south end of Schokland Island to the entrance of the Ketel the distance is about 2 miles and the depth from 27 to 29 d.M.
The Kamper Ketel, or Keteldiep, is the channel through which the river IJssel, running from the Rhine, enters the Zuider Zee and is the waterway to Kampen, Zwolle, Deventer, Zutphen, etc. North of the Ketel is Kamper-Island, formed by branches of the IJssel, known as Ganzendiep and Rechterdiep. The Ketel runs across the Kamper Zand and is protected by two dams. The channel can take vessels of 21 d.M. draught. On the north dam are beacons each with a black triangle. The pointed church towers of Kampen serve as landmarks.
Lights. A flashing harbour light on the end of the south dam, red over the southern entrance to the ketel E, and the rest white; moreover there is on the end of the north dam a green flashing light.
Fog signal. A bell struck 14 to 15 times every minute.
Two fixed white leading lights are placed, one on the inner end of the north dam and the other on the dyke 160 M. S 76° E from the first. These lights in line lead into the Ketel. On the outer head of the north is a green light (visible one mile) showing two very short flashes every second.
The navigation of the Ketel and of the IJssel, as far as Kampen, presents no difficulty. Keep in mid-channel until the town is reached, then stand over to the south side and piek up a berth along thequay wall, the best position being above the calling places of the trading steamers.
The bridge at Kampen is fixed with a drawbridge in the



44
centre with a opening of 16.7 M. in width. The height of the fixed part above the ordinary water-level is 3.17 M.
From Kampen to Katerveer flows the IJssel, which passes on its way from the Ehine through some of the most picturesque scenery in the Netherlands, and, with a vessel of suitable draught, will well repay a visit.
The Willemsvaart serves to connect the IJssel, with Zwolle and is 2.2 K.M. in length. It joins the IJssel at Katerveer, where there are two locks : the larger of them is 94^75 long, 12 M. wide, and 31.8 d.M. deep, the smaller 38 M. long, 5.39 M. wide, and 23.8 d.M. deep.
The width of this vaart varies from 22 to 30 M., and its depth is 32 d.M. It is crossed by 6 bridges : one a railwaybridge 11.90 M. wide near Zwolle ; none is fixed, and all have an opening of 12 M., with the exception of the drawbridge over the small lock at Katerveer, which is 5.39 M. wide. Covenient berths at Zwolle may be found in the Stadsgracht.
II. ZWOLLE by ZUIDER ZEE to SPAKENBURG — MUIDEN — AMSTEEDAM.
From Zwolle to the Zuider Zee follow the Willemsvaart to Katerveer and then through the IJssel to the Ketel, asalready described.
From the Ketel to Spakenburg the course is SWJW and the distance 24$ miles. The depth to Harderwijker Zand is from 24 to 26 d.M.; from Harderwijker Zand to Spakenburg 24, decreasing to 12 d.M. in the vicinity of the harbour of Spakenburg. Three miles from the coast the depth is 20 d.M. Spakenburg has a harbour of 10 d.M. depth ; a fixed green light is shown on the western dam of the harbour; more inside a fixed white light. These lights, when in line, leads into the harbour.
From Spakenburg to Muiden following the coastline three miles from the shore, there is a depth of 20 d.M. The course from Spakenburg to Huizen is NWJN and the distance 6 miles; from Huizen to Muiden NW by WJW and the distance 7 miles.'



Botter (fisherman) racing.






45
Hem Harbour is from 10 to 12 d.M. deep, and has a fixed white light on the west side of the mouth of the Eem.
Huizen Harbour is 10 d.M. deep and has a fixed white and red light on the end of the west harbour dam, red from S 87° W through west to N 41° W and the rest white. The red sector serves to indicate the east side of the harbour, where boats often anchor. On the east harbour dam is a red and green light; entering the harbour only the green light is seeing.
Muiden. The depth in the outer part of the harbour is 15—18 d.M. The church tower with a small and pointed roof, and the Castle, or Muiderslot, are good marks, as is the long pointed church steeple of Weesp and that of Naarden, in addition to the short tower of Muiderberg on the shore east of Muiden.
From Muiden to Amsterdam the first part of this route is to the Hoek van het IJ, and the course is NWf N, the distance being 2f miles. The depth here, over the Pampus Sandbank is from 17 to 22 d.M.
Fort Pampus is opposite the mouth of Muiden harbour at a distance 1.3 miles. It shows a fixed red light 13.1 M. above high water, visible 3 miles.
The fog signal is an automatic bell, sounding twice every 6 secs with intervals of 2 secs.
On the Hoek van het IJ is a brown octagonal iron light tower, showing a fixed white light 18.2 M. above high water, visible 12 miles. In fogs, a bell gives automatically 45 strokes every minute.
The waterway from the Hoek van het IJ to the Schellingwoude or Orange locks, the Buiten IJ, is protected on its southside by a stone dam, starting at the enclosure dyke of Schellingwoude to the South of the Orange locks, and ending nearly opposite the Hoek van het IJ. On the top of the dam are a number of iron beacons with diamond-shaped topmarks, placed 300 M. apart.
200 M. to the north of the dam the least depth of water is 26 d.M. At the end of this dam is a red and green fixed light 8.7 M. above high water, visible 6 miles. It shows red from S 6° W through west, north, and east tó S 84° E and green from S 84° E through south to S 6° W.
Midway between the Hoek van het IJ and Schellingwoude



46
the small and shallow harbour of Durgerdam is seen to the north. It admits vessels of 12 d.M. draught.
At Schellingwoude are the 3 Orange locks, which separate the IJ from the Zuider Zee. The great lock is 96 M. long and 18 M. wide ; the north and south small locks are each 72.8 M long, and 14 M. wide. All the locks have a depth of 45 d.M.
At night the entrance is indicated, seawards, by fixed green lights. In fogs, a bell is rung in answer to the fog-signal of an approaching vessel.
The IJ which leads to the harbour of Amsterdam is buoyed ; when proceeding to the city red buoys are left to port, black buoys to starboard. The best places for a yacht to bring up at Amsterdam, are either at the Veesteiger, or behind it, or in the adjacent yacht harbours.
The regulations as to speed in navigating the IJ are as follows :
Steamvessels of greater draught than 20 d.M., maximum speed 150 M. per minute, or 4| knots per hour.
Steamvessels of not more than 20 d.M. draught, maximum speed 200 M. per minute, or 6£ knots per hour.
Steamvessels of not more than 15 d.M. draught, maximum speed 250 M. per minute, or 8 knots per hour.
A vessel in tow in the day-time must not exceed a speed of 150 M. per minute, or 4| knots per hour. At night her speed must not exceed 100 M. per minute, or 3J knots per hour.
III. ZWOLLE by the river IJSSEL to DEVENTER — ZUTPHEN — ARNHEM.
The Geldersche IJssel from its entrance in the Zuiderzee to the point of its separation from the Lower Rhine at Westervoort is 127.3 K.M. in length.
The normal width of the IJssel gradually decreases from the Zuider Zee to the Rhine. At Kampen it is 170 M., at Katerveer 135 M., at Deventer 118 M., and at Westervoort it is about 90 M. The river is comparatively shallow; the maximum permissible draught in ordinary seasons may be taken to be 17 d.M. The channel is well buoyed and beaconed and stone breakwaters



47
project into the stream. The Willemsvaart from Zwolle to Katerveer, where it joins the IJssel is already described. There are nine bridges between Kampen and Westervoort, four of which are railway bridges ; those at Kampen and Westervoort are fixed. The height of the opening above the ordinary water-level is 9.25 M. and the width 112 M. All the others are swing or drawbridges; least width 15 M. There are seven chain ferries. The tow-path is for the most part on the left side. The harbour at Deventer is to the south of the town and has a depth of 20 d.M. The quay is 370 M. long.
There are two harbours at Zutphen ; the north harbour has a depth of 27.5 d.M.; the length of the quay is 320 M. The upperharbour has a depth of 18 d.M. and the length of the quay is 300 M.
The harbour at Doesburg varies from 15 to 35 d.M. in depth. Along the quay, which is 253 M. long, it is from 25 to 27.5 d.M. deep.
There are numerous mooring places along the course of the river. There is a strong current in the IJssel at different places between Kampen and Westervoort, the stream at times running as much as four knots.
In entering the Rhine at Westervoort, care must be taken to make a wide circuit; the current runs strongly — about three knots — and there are stony shallows near the juhcture, and long projecting break-waters.
A convenient berth for a yacht at Arnhem is against the left bank, opposite the town and above the bridge of boats. Below the bridge of boats and on the Arnhem side is a small harbour, with a narrow entrance and a depth of about 20 d.M. It is fairly quiet and being in the town is convenient for sight-seeing.
IV. ARNBEM — NIJMEGEN — by the river Waal to DOBDRECHT and ROTTERDAM.
From Arnhem one follows the Lower Rhine to Westervoort and its continuation the Pannerdensche Canal, which joins the Waal at Pannerden.



48
Harbours. Nijmegen On the south side of the Waal has an area of 9 acres and a depth of 30 d.M. Quay-wall 380 M. long.
At Nijmegen there are also quays along the riverside.
Tiel, on the north side has an area of 14 acres and a depth of 22 d.M.; no quay-walls.
Zalt-Bommel on the south side has an area of 5£ acres, and a depth from 15 to 16 d.M. ; no quay-walls.
There is a flying bridge at Nijmegen and "pendulum" ferries at Druten, Tiel and Zalt-Bommel. Between Nijmegen and Gorinchem are two fixed railway-bridges, viz. at Nijmegen and ZaltBommel, the former is 13.83 M. above the mean water-level and 9.73 M. above the highest level; the span is 127 M. The latter is 13.5 M. above the mean water-level and 9.9. M. above the highest water-level; the span is 118.75 M.
Near Pannerden the stream is about 300 M. wide, increasing to about 800 M. at Gorinchem. Under normal conditions the discharge of water is from 1400 to 1900 cubic metres per second. The river is navigable for vessels of 100 M. in length, drawing 28.5 d.M.
The length of the Waal from Pannerden to Gorinchem is 84.2 K.M. There is a secure harbour at Gorinchem, leading to the Merwede Canal 8 hectares in area, and 32 d.M. in depth. No quays.
At Loevestein, near Gorinchem, where the Maas joins the Waal, the river is named the Upper Merwede, 9.04 K.M. long and extends to Hardingsveld at the point where the Lower and New Merwede separate. Normal breath at Gorinchem, where it connects with the Merwede Canal, 450 M. ; at Hardingsveld 500 M.
The Lower Merwede extends from Hardingsveld to Dordrecht at the point where the Noord leaves the Old Maas, a distance of 14.95 K.M. Its normal breath is about 200 M.
There is a fixed railway bridge at Baanhoek with two openings, each 104 M. wide, and of a height of 11.79 M. above the waterlevel at high water, and 13.17 M. at low water.
A convenient berth for yachts at Dordrecht may be found in the Wolwevershaven. A charge of three cents per ton on the gross tonnage of the vessel is made for the use of the harbour. Drinking water may be obtained from the quayside. The postoffice, is in the Vischstraat.









49
From Dordrecht to Rotterdam the course is through the Noord, keeping to the right of the Sophia Polder and then past Alblasserdam into the Nieuwe Maas.
The Noord, connecting the Merwede with the Nieuwe Maas is 8.67 K.M. long and 100 M. wide. The Nieuwe Maas at his junction with the Noord is 225 M. wide. and increases in width as it nears Rotterdam, wherè it is 360 M. wide. There are two fixed bridges at Rotterdam*): a railway bridge 8 M. above high water and 9.3 M. above low water, with an opening of 83.4 M. ; a road bridge with a height of 4.38 M. above high water, and 6.28 M. above low water, with an opening of 84.7 M.
At Rotterdam yachts can be accomodated at the Royal Rowing and Sailing Club "de Maas" in the Veerhaven ; it is quiet and handy for tram cars. Owners can be introduced and have the use of the Club-House and attendance. Or application may be made to the harbour-master for a berth at one of the quays ; berths at the Prinsen Hoofd are generally reserved for yachts.
Welsh coal is, as a rule, not obtainable. Russian petroleum for motorboats may be readily procured. Water suitable for drinking is supplied at 10 d. per 100 gallons by boats, which come alongside.
V. ARNHEM — VREESWIJK — by the RHINE and LEK to ROTTERDAM.
The Lower Rhine extends from its junction with the Waal at Pannerden to Wijk bij Duurstede. Thence to Krimpen on Lek the waterway is known as the Lek and from there to Rotterdam as the Nieuwe Maas. The distance from Pannerden to Krimpen is
*) There are also raiiway and road bridges over the Koningshaven which conneot the Prins Hendrikkade on the Noorder Eiland (Northern Island) with Feijenoord on the South Side of the Nieuwe Maas. The iailway bridge is 7.63 M. above high water and 9.02 M. above low water and has an opening of 20 M. The road bridge is 2.40 M. above high water and 3.79 M. above low water with an opening of 20 M.



50
121.3 K.M. At Pannerden, and as far as the junction of the IJssel, its width is about 170 M. From this junction — the Kop van IJssel of the rivermen — to Eek en Wiel, near to Wijk bij Duurstede, it is about 130 M. wide. From Eek en Wiel to Vreeswijk it is above 160 M. wide. From Vreeswijk to Krimpen it is about 225 M. in width. The river is buoyed and beaconed throughout its course, and the navigable channel, confined by breakwaters, readily admits vessels of 7 feet draught. There is a 3 knots current in places. No locks. Five bridges between Arnhem and Krimpen; three are fixed railway bridges, of Vhich the least height above the mean water level is 12.75 M. and 9 M. above the highest water-level. The least width is 81 M. The bridge at Kuilenburg, 164 yards, is one of the longest spans in Europe.
Below Arnhem there are pendulum ferries, or "gierponten", viz. at Driel, Benkum, Lekskenveer, Opheusden, Bhenen, Ingen, Eek en Wiel, Wijk bij Duurstede, Beusichem and Kuilenburg; and 4 cable-ferries ("kabelponten") viz. at Tienhoven, Schoonhoven, Bergstoep and Krimpen on Lek.
Harbours. Wageningen — on the north side. Length 100 M. breadth 40 M. depth 20 d.M., is connected with the river by a short canal 22 M. wide.
Wijk bij Duurstede — on the north side. Length 250 M., breadth 25 M., depth 26.5 d.M.; is enclosed by two piers 8 M. high and leads up to the entrance of Kromme Bhine, which here connects the Lower Bhine with the Oude Bhine at Utrecht.
Kuilenburg — on the south side ; Length 240 M., breadth 25 to 30 M., depth 20 d.M.
Vianen — on the south side. Depth 22.3 d.M. Leads up to the Wilhelmina Lock and to the Zederik-Canal.
Vreeswijk — on the north side. Leads up to the MerwedeCanal.
Leksmond — on the south side. Length 70 M., breadth 20 M., depth 23 d.M.
Schoonhoven — on the northside. Has one harbour; the outer-side, or north harbour, is 120 M. long, 19 M. wide, and 15 d.M. deep ; the inner side is from 14 to 18 M. wide, the length of the quay is 100 M. and the depth of water 15 d.M.



51
Useful Information.
English Dutch Pronounced.
Pilot Loods Loads
How much Hoeveel Hodvale
Too much Te veel Tayvale
How far Hoe ver Hoóver
Buoy Boei Booee
Lighthouse Vuurtoren Vuretoornn
Bow Roeien Roóyun
Lock (of a canal) Sluis Sleuce
Harbour Haven Haavun
Harbour-master Havenmeester Haavunmaister
Harbour dues Havengelden Haavungeldun
Please Als 't U belieft As you bleaf
Thank you Dank u Tank you
No thank you Neen dank u Nay tank you
Anchor Anker anker
Ebb Eb Ebb
Flood Vloed Vloód
Tow (by boat) sleepen Slaypun
„ (by man or Jagen Jaagun horse)
Rope Touw Tow
Cable Kabel Kaabel
Lights Lichten Ligtun
How deep Hoe breed Hoó braid
How long Hoe lang Hoó lang
Tug Sleepboot Slaypboat
Bridge Brug Brugge
(not the card game !)
When will the bridge Hoe laat opent de Hoó laat opunt the
be opened ? brug ? brugge ?
What is the name Hoe heet dat dorp? Hoó hate datdorrup ? of that village?
Hour Uur Ur (the u as in French)
Ashore Dutch people in general ne ver reckon distan ces by miles, but say that it takes many minutes or hours to get there on foot,
which they express by the word "gaans."
If you ask : how far ? they answer : so many minutes or hours „gaans."



52
Dutch Money.
Guilder, in Dutch „gulden", is the unit. It is a silver coin value 1 s. 8 d. The normal exchange is twelve gulden to onepound sterling.
There are 100 cents in a guilder, therefore 5 cents equal one penny.
The coins are as follows : copper: J, 1 and 2 J cents.
nickel: 5 cents5, silver : 10 cents (dubbeltje). 25 „ (kwartje), guilder (written f 1.— for florin, but never so called).
2$ guilders (rijksdaalder), gold 10 gulden. 5 gulden.
One guilder is about 2 francs, 3 guilders = 5 sMlhngs.
Postage to England from Holland is 12$ cents for a letter, 5 cents for a postcard, 2$ cents for a postcard with only initials.
Telegram» to England cost 10 cents per word; minimum 50 cents. (10 d.).
Books and Publications. THE DUTCH TOURING-GLUB (A. N. W. B.)
publishes Itineraries for the Dutch Waterways, which can be obtained at the Office of that Club, (Laan Copes van Cattenburch 64, the Hague), or through the Official Information Office (Lange Voorhout 45, the Hague).
Each itinerary contains one or two trips with summary chart and inforrnation about distance, breadth, and depth of the waterways, bridges, locks, tolls, etc.
The following sheets cost 6 d. each.
Blad 1. — Route A, I. Amsterdam-Buik- I B 1 a d 2. — Route A. I, Amsterdam -
sloot -Monnikendam -Purmerend-Spijkerboor- Spaarndam - Haarlem - „De Cruquius'' -
Knollendam-Wormerveer-Zaandam- Amster- Leiden - Molenaarsbrug - Oude Wetering -
dam. — Route A. II. Spijkerboor-West Aalsmeer - Amsterdam. Met zijroute: „De
Graftdijk - Marken binnen - Westzaan - i Leeghwater" - Oude Wetering - Huis ten
Nauerna - Amsterdam. — Route B. Het Drecht. — Route A. II. Molenaarsbrug -
Schouw - Purmerend - Spijkerboor - De Gouwesluis - Vrouwenakker - Amsterdam.
Hoorne - Alkmaar - Schoorldam - Den Helder. I



53
Blad 3.— Route A. I. Amsterdam - I Blad 13. — Route A. I. Leeuwarden -
Haarlem - „De Cruquius' - Leiden -Voorburg - Wartena - Kruiswater - De Hooidam - Grouw -
Delft - Overschie - Rotterdam. — Route A. Terborne - Sneek. — Route A. II. Kruiswater -
II. Overschie - Delfshaven - Rotterdam. — Meijnertsburen - Grouw. — Route A III
Route A. m. Overschie - Schiedam -Rotterd. Leeuwarden - Hempens - Warga - Grouw. —
■-- ": Route B. Leeuwarden - Boxumerdam - De
Blad 4 —Route A, I. Rotterdam - Dille - Sneek. Krimpen - Gouda - Gouwesluis - Oude Wetering - Amsterdam —- Route A. II Gouwesluis - Blad 14. — Route A. I. Sneek - Ijlst Ter Aar - Ouderkerk - Amsterdam. - Route Nieuwe Zijl - Oosthem - Abbegasterketting f"18?"1™; Ve,sen " IJn»"d°n Met zij. Wolsumerketting - bij Wolsum - Bolsward route : Amsterdam - Zaandam. Tjerkwerd - Parrega - (Workum) - Heeg -
Blad 5. — Route A. Leiden - De Vink - Sneek. — Route A. II. Bolsward-Tjerkwerd -
Haagsche Schouw - Katwijk binnen - Katwijk Allingawier - Kakeshoek - Makkum. — Route
aan Zee. — Route B Leiden - Leidschendam - A- m- Bolsward - Exmorrazijl - Kakeshoek.
's Gravenhage - Seheveningen. Route C. —Route B. Sneek - Langweer en Boornzwaag -
Delft - Den Hoorn - Vlaardingsché Schouw- (Broek) - (Joure) - Goingarijp - Kruiswater -
Maassluis. — Route D. Delft - Vlaardingsché Sneek. Schouw - Vlaardingen.
Blad 15. — Route A. Stroobos - Het Dorp
Blad 6. — Route A. Amsterdam - Ouder- - Gaarkeuken - De Bril - Enumatil - Oostwolde
kerk - Kromme Mijdrecht (Woerden) - Oud- | - De Poffert - Vierverlaten - Hoogkerk -
huizer Schutsluis - Breukelen - Nieuwersluis - Groningen. — Route B. Dokkumer Nieuwe
Loenersloot - Amsterdam. - Route B. I. Zijlen - Zoutkamp - Roodehaan - Schouwerzijl
Oudhuizer Schutsluis - WUnis - Vinkeveen - - Aduarderzijl - Garnwerd - Wetsinghe -
Demmeriksche Schutsluis - Loenersloot - Wierumerschouw - Groningen. — Route C.
Café „De Voetangel" - Amsterdam. — Route Groningen - Hoogkerk - Vierverlaten - De
B. II. Amsterdam - Kromme Mijdrecht - Poffert - Oostwolde - Enumatil - De Bril -
Mijdrecht - Wilnis. — Route B. III. Amsterdam Gaarkeuken - Het Dorp - Stroobos - Gerkes-
- Doijersluis - Wilnis. klooster - Blaauw Verlaat - Kootstertüle -
B, , _ „ Sohuilenburg - Bergumerdam - Suawolde -
„,Blaa 7.-«otóe^ Amsterdam-Omval. De Kruiswaters (bij Wartena). Meynerts.
\Veesp - Nederhorst den Berg - Utrecht - | buren - Grouw - Irnsum - Oude Schouws-
Vianen - Gonnchem - Hardinxveld - Dor- Sluis bij Terhome - Kruiswater - Sneek. drecht - Alblasserdam - Rotterdam.
ni-jo „ . , , , Blad 16. — Route A I. Groningen -
HalfwL %ZSZ? Amsterdam &lo en - Noorder-Hoogebrug - Zuidwolde - Ellerhuizen
SS " paarlT--~ n V,treC^ ■ " Bedum - Onderdendam - Winsum - Obergum
Utrecht-Jutphaas- Vreeswijk. Schoonhoven «°°8ker*Gronmgen - Route A.H. Aduar-
IJsselmonde - Rotterdam Sclloon"OTeD derzijl - Garnwerd - Wetsingb - Wierumer-
schouw - Groningen. — Route B. Groningen -
Bi.j . p„„,„ , T T Roodehaan - Zuidlaardermeer - Zuidlaren. —
^S^tziZiïZiSz: srcDe-p^gL^HrgkerkBvirr
Burgumerdan, - Stroobos. - Route A. II. -1^C n^kï
Lemmer - Sloten - Osingahuizen - Sneek . ~ Soute C- Leekstermeer - Roden.
Ingang Sneekermeer. „ . , , „
i> 1 a a 17. — Route A. I. Groningen -
BI ad 10. — Route A. I. Lemmer -"Echte- Ruisscherbrug - Woltersum - Opwierda_ -
ner brug - Heerenveen - Nieuwe Schouw Delfzijl. — Route A II Groningen - Ooster-
Akkrum - Grouw - Leeuwarden. — Route I S,00***™8 " Ruisscherbi-ug - Garmerwolde -
A.ll Nieuwe Schouw-Oude Schouw-Irnsum- ?f' " ^0^?™ ■ (Woltersum) - Ten
Grauw. — Route B. Lemmer - Follega - De „ ' Ga»elsweerd - Appingedam - Delfzijl.
Gebraden Haan - Lemmer — KmUe A nL Groningen - Ruisscherbrug -
| Het Schapenhok - (Appingedam) - Meed-
Blad 11. — Route A. Stavoren - Heeg - i hnizen " Farmsum - Delfzijl
Ingang Sneekermeer - Terhorne - Akkrum - I
Pean - Dragten — Route B. Akkrum - Olde- B I a d 18 — Route A Groningen (bij de
boom - Gorredijk Klein-Groningen - Appelscha Schutsluis) - Hemmen - Haren - Vries - Assen
_,,,„„ (Groningerstraat) - Assen - (bij de Kazerne) -
Blad 12.—Route A. I. Harlingen - Kloosterveen - Smilde - Hooge Smilde -
Dronrnp - Leeuwarden - Snakkeburen - Dieverbrug - Uffelte - Havelte - Meppel -
Dokkum - Nieuwe Zijlen. — Route A. XL (Galgenkapsbrug) - Meppel - Zwartsluis -
Leeuwarden. Suawoude - Kuikhorne - Nieuwe Hasselt - Zwolle (aan het Zwartewater) -
"len- I Zwolle (Keersluis) - Katerveer.



54
Blad 19. — Arnhem - Kampen langs de I Rotterdamsche Waterweg met zijroute; Ueldersche IJssel met zij route Dieren - Hat- Vlaardingen - Ooostvoorne langs Nieuwe Maas tem - door het Apeldoornsche kanaal. Botlek en Brielsche Maas;
Vlaardingen - Goudswaard langs Nieuwe
Blad 20.—Nijmegen - Pannerden - en Oude Maas en het Spui; Emmerik langs Waal en. Rijn - Arnhem - Nieuwe Sluis • Hellevoetsluis door het -
Pannerden - Emmerik langs Rijn en Panner- Voornsche kanaal, densche kanaal.
Blad 24 — Rotterdam - Pernis PoortuB 1 a d 21. ■— Rotterdam - Arnhem langs gaal - Puttershoek - Alblasserdam - SlikkerNieuwe Maas, Lek en Neder-Rijn. veer - Rotterdam langs Nieuwe Maas -
Noordgeul - Oude Maas - Noord en Nieuwe Blad 22. —'Rotterdam - Dordrecht - i Maas met zijroute t Dordrecht - Willemsdorp Nijmegen - langs Nieuwe Maas - Noord-Mer- > langs Oude Maas - Mollegat - Dordtsche Kil. wede en.Waal. t^*.*C
Blad 25. — Utrecht - Gorinchem -' s Her' - B 1 a d 23. — Rotterdam - Vlaardingen' - togenbosch - Maastricht langs Zederikkanaal Hoek van Holland langs Nieuwe Maas en Waal - Maas - Dieze en Zuid -Willemsvaart.
As a reliable technical guide we recommend : "A yachtsman's guide to the Dutch waterways," by T. E. Thorpe; Edw. Stanford, London.
Books pleasant to read and giving valuable information are :
Three Vagabonds in Friesland — H. F. Tomalin, illustrated by A. Marshall.
The Botor Chaperon — C. N. & W. M. Williamson.
Through Holland in the Vivette — H. Keble Chatterton.
Cruising in the Netherlands — G. Davies.
Cruise on Friesland Broads — Brougham.
The following publications of the official Information office are, on application, sent FBEE OF CHABGE : Friesland Meres. Zeeland and Walcheren. Haarlem and the Bulbfields. Dutch Watergardens. A Tour through Holland. Dutch Castles No. 1.
Guides.
Every year on receipt of a P. O. order for 2/- we will send in the month of June a hst of the different hours for the opening and closing of the bridges controlled by the railways, on the most important canals.
We also hope to be able to send in 1914 on receipt of a P. O. order for 2/- a guidebook containing small charts of the most important harbours in Holland.



For trips per MOTOR GAR
apply to
:: AMSTERDAMSGHE :: RIJTUIG MAATSCHAPPIJ
(Amst. Garriage Gy)
Direction of the Automobiel Exploitatie Maatschappij ::
Hire- Department
Gabriel Metsustraat 2-6 co„rcert.HouSe
TELEF. Z. 1197 " AMSTERDAM -



■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ ■
When visiting Holland this summer, don't omit to make ■ the finest and most interesting watertrip on the
„Highway of Holland's transit trade"
by
Fop Smif s
Saloon Paddie Steamers, j
absolutely the most comfortable and luxuriously outfitted passenger steamers afloat.
Daily excursion from Rotterdam via Dordrecht to S the historie Loevestein Castle, Holland's famous old
State Prison. ■
Excellent Restaurant on board.
Illustrated guides free on application to FOP SMIT & C°. at Rotterdam, or the Inquiry offices of the Holland Railway ■ at Rotterdam, The Hague and Scheveningen Kurhaus, where also combined Rail- and Boattickets are issued.
Pleasure cruises through the Rotterdam Harbours, six times aday.
Landing stage at Rotterdam, Oosterkade near the 2 Maas-station.
Do Come.
'Ê ■