But it is not alone the formal side of Leiden's culture that is interesting. What attracts the stranger who is permitted to see something of the private side of the University life there, is the fine sense of establishing contact with the product of generations of culture. There is no pretentiousness to these people: their culture gives a quite unconscious graciousness to their most perfunctory remarks, to their most trifling actions. It is no newly assumed garb like that paraded beyond the Rhine. It is a culture of character, instinctive, spontaneous in its manifestations. It showed itself even physically: the neat well placed ear, the well set eye, whose quick play and sparkle reflected every phase of conversation and bespoke a mind of delicate sensitivenes in constant and lively contact with the unceasing changes of life. Or again — a silvered temple, a gracious brow, a clear profile were the sure index to intellectual alertness and graciousness of heart. Remarkable was the number of elderly people whom life had not spoiled, but who still retained in age something of the gentle charm of childhood : it seemed that from here grasping greed and mean ambition were banished away, that life was so organised as to enable men and women to fulfil in age the happy promise of their youth.
If the cheap cynic smiles and refers to the smugness of the round Dutch cheese, we care not. We prisoner guests got the benefit of the round Dutch cheese and were grateful. It may be frankly stated that the solid work of the Dutch cheese is significant of the people. But the statement contains no contradiction to the life of culture as seen in Holland. For it is no exclusive exotic growth: it pervades life generally, alike in the busy cafés, in the charming canal-side inns, and on the water. For these cultured Dutch are people who love the ópen air. It is a culture of natural growth. It was first bought with the sweat of toil: for while fortune may be sought in „India", yet the most of Holland's wealth is redeemed